I made this knitting needle roll for a friend who recently started knitting. While explaining the tool roll I was going to make this weekend she got so excited I had to change my post. My wrenches will remain unorganized but she is super excited. Who needs organized wrenches anyway?
I adapted this from a crochet hook organizer I created a few years ago. It has pockets for both straight needles and circular needles. I also added a zipper pocket using vinyl so she will have a place to put her accessories like yarn needles, scissors, and stitch counters. I used vinyl so you can see what’s in the pocket.
This will easily fit 14 in needles. If you don’t use 14 in needles then you could cut it down and make your roll smaller. You could also skip the pocket if you want more needle space.
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- ¼ yd cotton fabric (Outside)
- ¼ yd cotton fabric (Inside)
- Fusible Interfacing
- 16” x 7” Clear Vinyl
- 18 in Zipper
- Basic Sewing Supplies
Start by cutting your fabric. You will need one 17.5” x 15.5” piece and one 20” x 16.6” piece cut from the fabric you want on the outside. The 20” x 16.6” will actually be going in the inside so this could be another coordinating color if you like. You will also need one 17.5” x 15.5” piece and one 20” x 11” piece cut from the fabric you want as the main fabric on the inside.
Cut your interfacing to 17.5” x 15.5”. I tend to use whatever mid weight interfacing I have around. Mostly because I never think to buy it for a specific project. This problem is bad enough that I just keep it on hand so I don’t have to run to the store mid project. For this project I used Pellon 931TD Fusible mid weight Interfacing.
Iron your interfacing onto the 17.5” x 15.5” piece you will use as your inside fabric.
The 20” x 16.6” outside fabric and 20” x 11” inside fabric are for pockets. Fold them both in half so you will have a 20” x 8.25” piece and a 20” x 5.5” piece. These are much longer than the main piece to give you the extra fabric to make the pockets. You should have plenty of extra fabric for pockets, I cut part of it off later.
Pin your 20” x 8.25” piece to the main fabric starting in the bottom right hand corner. I made 1 pocket 1.5” apart using 1.75” of fabric, 1 pocket 1” wide using 1.25” of fabric, and 11 pockets .75” wide using 15/16” of fabric.
You want the first pocket to be big because your binding will cut into the space you have here. I also like to keep larger needles at the end so I add a few larger pockets here. As this was created for a friend just getting into knitting, I didn’t have her collection of needles to size it. Use your needles to see how big your pockets should be. You want each pocket to hold a pair of needles.
Use a pin at the top, bottom, and one in the middle to mark your pockets. I used a ruler to keep mine straight. My pockets took up about 11” of space. You can add more or less depending on the size of your collection and how big you want the pocket at the end to be. I ended up with a fairly large pocket. Once you are happy with your pockets sew each of them down where you had the pins. Now you can pin your 20” x 5.5” piece on top of the pockets you just created. These pockets are for circular needles so they are much wider.
Line your fabric up with the first set of pockets and pin the pockets based on where you already have pockets behind it. You don’t want to sew midway through one of your existing pockets so you need to have your pockets end in the same place. I created 3 pockets for circular needles. The space between these doesn’t need to be as precise as the first set of pockets. Remember that the one on the end will not end up as long as it looks once you’ve added binding.
Sew a piece of binding to each side of your zipper. This is not necessary as they won’t fray but it looks nice. You can get pretty close the metal teeth of the zipper but you want to make sure that you leave enough room for the zipper to slide past. I only added the binding to the side near the needle pockets and you can see in the picture how much nicer it looks than the other side. It makes it look much more finished.
Sew your vinyl the back side of the zipper. You want the zipper to hide the end of the vinyl. Sew the zipper about ¼” from the side of the zipper. If you are having trouble with the vinyl sticking to the sewing machine, put a piece of scrap fabric under it so help it slide.
If you do not add the bias tape then you will need to sew the vinyl on top of the fabric part of the zipper and sew it closer to the metal teeth of the zipper.
Place your zipper pocket where you would like it on the knitting needle roll. You will need to cut the left-over fabric from the needle pockets, cut it ¼” from the sewing line. It’s better to wait until you are ready to sew the vinyl to cut the fabric to make sure that you like the size of the pocket. At this point you could add more needle pockets if you wanted.
Sew the zipper ¼” from the side of the zipper to the last sewn line of the needle pockets. You want the vinyl to overhang the fabric. Vinyl has a tendency to move a little when you’re sewing it. Better to cut the extra later then have to redo it when the vinyl doesn’t fit.
Adding the Outside Fabric
Pin or use binding clips to attach the outside fabric to the roll. You want the wrong sides of the fabric together. I use binding clips on vinyl because pins will leave holes in your vinyl. Move the zipper pull to the middle of the pocket to keep it out of your way.
Cut two 22” strips of ribbon. Fold them in half and clip them to the side of the roll. Not the side with the vinyl. The fold should be between the front and back fabrics. You will need to keep track of the ribbons while you’re sewing so you don’t accidentally sew them to the side.
Starting at the zipper going towards the vinyl sew the entire roll together with a ¼” seam allowance. Sew over the zipper a few times for strength. Always start with the vinyl so it can move a little without causing too many problems. Once it has been sewn down you can cut the extra vinyl off.
You are now ready for the binding. Clip or pin your bias tape around the entire bag. Start sewing the binding onto the roll midway down a long edge. Pretty much anywhere without the vinyl, I would avoid the ribbons as well. You want to leave a tail of unsewn fabric at the beginning and end, this should be a few inches long.
When you get to the corner back stitch and take the roll off the sewing machine. Fold the fabric around the corner at a 45-degree angle and pin or clip it. Make sure that the front and the back line up correctly. Start again at that corner. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Measure the width of the binding. You want to leave an overlap of binding that length at the end. Back stitch and remove the roll from the sewing machine.
Pin the right sides of the 2 tails together. You will sew along the line shown in the picture. I didn’t get a picture this time so this picture is from a previous post. I usually draw this line when I do this. Once you’ve sewn along the line turn it to make sure it is connected correctly. If it looks right go ahead and cut the extra fabric ¼“ from your sewing line. Sew the binding down.
You are now ready to organize your knitting supplies. This is a great way to organize your own knitting supplies or a gift for a friend to organize theirs.
I would love to see how your project turns out. Post pictures to Instagram #boutsofspontaneouscrafting